Laying Turf Guide

 

Step 1: Start from an outside edge – and lay the first strip widthways slightly overlapping the boundary (you can trim this back when you have finished). Press carefully to make good soil contact but without squashing the turf.

Step 2: Continue laying adjacent pieces until you have completed the first row of turf along an entire edge.

Step 3: Now start the next row. If you need to stand on laid turf, use a plank to avoid denting or squashing it. It is important to stagger successive rows so that the short edges do not line up (they should alternate like the vertical joins in brickwork).

Step 4: Continue like this, butting and pushing the edges for a tight join but being careful not to stretch the turf.

Step 5: Finally you need to trim any untidy edges with an old woodsaw or sharp serrated knife – but remember to use the planks to avoid walking directly on the turf.

Step 6: Newly-laid turf must be watered well enough for the water to penetrate the soil but without turning it into a mud bath. You can gently pull back a piece to inspect the soil. In hot weather, be sure to water as soon as you have laid your lawn.

How To Look After Your New Lawn

Watering: Your new turf must be kept moist until it has fully established. If it’s not raining you will need to water it yourself. In hot, dry or windy conditions you may have to water twice or even three times a day; and water immediately at any sign of the turf drying out or shrinking.

If you do find yourselves not giving enough water and gaps appear in between the rows and joins of turf, the fill those gaps with soil/seed mix available from our website.

Eventually you will see healthy new white roots when you carefully lift a corner of turf, and you know these are established when it becomes difficult to pull back the turf.

Mowing: In spring and summer your new turf will be ready for its first mow in 7-10 to days. But make sure it’s a gentle cut! You just want to top the grass, so raise the cutting height and use a grass box. Then continue to cut (twice a week in spring or once a week in summer), never removing more than one third of the current height.

If you have laid turf in autumn, follow the spring guidelines; but for winter-laid turf, top off only if it is still growing. Otherwise leave it until spring. And remember - always make sure your mower blade is sharp!

Feeding: If you have used pre-turfing fertiliser (page 5) your new turf will be happy for at least two months. After that, follow a regular feeding regime using the correct seasonal feeds (caution - applying the wrong nutrients can damage your lawn. 

Troubleshooting: Grass is a very robust plant, and if you have prepared the site properly and followed our laying guidelines you shouldn’t have any problems with your new lawn. However, you may notice a few natural phenomenons in the first few weeks while it settles in to its new environment.

After a few weeks it’s not uncommon to notice toadstools popping up in the new lawn. This is nothing to worry about! and is particularly common in autumn or warm and wet conditions and will soon sort itself out.

All soil contains dormant fungal spores. These can lay inactive for years and years – but when the soil is disturbed they can spring back to life and grow into toadstools. You don’t need to remove them – they will disappear after a couple of mows without doing any permanent damage.

There are different types of toadstool and most have been tested and shown to be non-toxic. However, we advise you take normal precautions to ensure that youngsters (and inquisitive adults) don’t eat them, just in case.

Your new lawn might also develop flowering seed heads. Grass produces these naturally although they are more prevalent in the late spring/summer especially it the weather turns hot and dry (drought conditions).

When turf is harvested the majority of the root system is cut off. This is stressful to the grass plants and they produce seed heads as a means of self preservation. The seed heading will reduce once the new turf has established a new root system, which can take 6-8 weeks. Seed heading will also reduce if the new lawn receives adequate nutrients and is mowed regularly with a sharp blade.

 

Download Turf Laying Guide